We’re mere days away from the start of our 2015 Straw Bale Workshop. This summer’s weather has been surprisingly wet — we’ve had some amount of rain at least every other day (if not every day) for the past two weeks or more. I’m hopeful that things will settle down by the weekend. If not, we’ll be able to cope, I do believe. At least the mushrooms are happy. This season’s high levels of rain have brought some important straw bale building lessons to the forefront.
Only Use Dry Straw Bales for Building
One of the most critical lessons about working with straw bales is keeping them dry, d-r-y. It is not worth the risk whatsoever to use damp bales, or bales that show any signs of moisture damage. You’re only shortening the lifespan of your walls, and increasing the potential for decomposition by using questionable material. To that effect, you really need to take every possible measure to ensure that the bales you’re purchasing are sound. Here are some sure indicators of straw bales that are a no-go for building purposes:
- Discoloration: straw bales should have a yellow color that “pops”, not a muted or grayish color
- Visible mold or mildew
- Extra weight (from moisture buildup)
- Plumes of what looks like dust (but is more likely mold) when a bale is thumped
Avoid these bales like the plague and you’re on the right track.
Once you get them on-site they should be stored in a very protected environment. In a wet climate such as ours, straw bale storage can be tricky. A shed or barn with a permanent roof (or your building itself, if there’s enough room) are the best options. Bales should be up on pallets so they’re not in direct contact with the ground, either. Tarps as a primary protection against the weather are generally not sufficient.
Until your bales are under the roof of your building, they need to be treated very delicately. Guarding against moisture is key.